Prague is a justly popular destination, but many tourists and travelers have also been walking, cycling and eating in smaller Czech cities, such as Brno, Cesky Krumlov and Litomysl. Once you have finished with your round of visits to art galleries and historical sites around Prague, move on to places beyond the capital for a captivating and memorable visit of the Czech Republic.
Alfons Mucha’s The Slav Epic paintings: Tourists with a keener eye for art can feast on work done by Czech painter Alfons Mucha, who created a cycle of 20 huge canvases in the art nouveau style. They are on show at the Veletržní Palace, part of the national gallery, and are monumental. It is destined for a permanent home, when Prague can agree where and how to fund it.
Petrin Tower: Buy a one-day travel pass and rumble along on a number 22 tram from the National Theatre across the Voltava river, then let the funicular railway take the strain up Petrin Hill. The Petrin Observation Tower is an Eiffel lookalike and sways slightly in the wind. You can go up by lift or climb the 299 wooden stairs on the outside to the viewing platform. Stroll back to the city through gardens and apple orchards.
Obecni Dum: The cultural tour of this Prague landmark which is the municipal house and concert venue takes visitors around areas they would only see if they went to a number of concerts. Here is showcased stunning art and architecture plus an interesting history.
Zlatý Klas restaurant: This is an excellent, authentic Czech bar restaurant. It is out of the city center, and west of the river but not so very far away. You can eat your fill for a very modest outlay.
Adrspach, Teplice Rocks: With an area of 44 square km in north-eastern Bohemia, 161 km from Prague, this national park is made up of sandstone that has been eroded over the years into fantastic shaped rock formations. A marked pathway, taking about three hours to walk, takes you past and through the formations, with names such as the Caterpillar, Butcher’s Axe, the Dog and Boar, and the Sphinx and the Golem. For a taste of a little more history, one could also try climbing the ladders to the ruins of Strmen Castle, now a viewing platform.
Brno: Brno is a terrific alternative to Prague, say many tourists. Cheaper, for one thing, and without McDonald’s or Starbucks everywhere. Countless bars serve great food and beer, the views from Spilberk, an old fortress, and the cathedral are excellent, and the city can be easily negotiated on foot, unless you fancy the tram system, which extends over most of it.
Litomysl castle and theatre: The castle in Litomysl is UNESCO worldheritage listed and its baroque 150- seat theatre is one of only five in the world. The town is full of Renaissance and baroque buildings and the old brewery is the birthplace of the composer Smetana. The monastery gardens, with individual sculptures and subtle background music, are another attraction, as is the good, cheap beer and food.
Kromeriz and Mikulov: Less than 150 km apart, these South Moravian towns are linked by good cycling routes where you can enjoy vineyards around the Morava river, the smell of flowering lime trees, baroque buildings, palaces and gardens, and market square cafes. In Kromeriz the highlight is the Radnicni restaurant, serving a tasting menu with local wines. In Mikulov, Hotel Templ provides comfortable rooms and excellent food, and was a good base for a day’s cycling exploring the former Liechtenstein palaces of Val]tice and Lednice, and Mikulov itself.
Cesky Krumlov: After a few busy days in Prague, Cesky Krumlov is a refreshing getaway three to five hours south of the capital by bus. You follow the Vltava River 180 km south from Prague towards the German border to this UNESCO world heritage site set in a tight loop of the Vltava. It is dominated by an imposing castle built on sheer rock which gives stunning views over the medieval houses and narrow streets. The castle has a bear pit (complete with bears) and an historic theatre where original costumes are still worn for performances.
Well-informed, multilingual town guides are very helpful and not expensive to hire for two or three hours. Families will love canoeing on the winding river through gorges and the town itself. And there are beautiful and undemanding walks in the gentle surrounding countryside and forest.
Walking: The Czech Republic has an amazing network of well-marked colour-coded footpaths. Outside almost any railway stations which exist even in the smallest of villages, one can find a sign indicating a variety of walking routes, with distances and likely times. Good walking maps are widely available for much of the country.
