By Ali Hassen Ahmed
Second Secretary
Ethiopian Embassy, Kuwait
Coffee, one of the world’s favorite beverages, was ‘born’ in the Kaffa province of Southern Ethiopia. The word ‘coffee’ comes from the name of this place, where coffee has long been a wild crop. In Ethiopia, where it all started, the word for ‘coffee’ is ‘Buna’.
Coffee is vital to Ethiopian economy, accounting for most of the country’s foreign income. In Ethiopia, coffee grows in almost all regions; and the country is one of Africa’s leading producers of Coffee Arabica. With its rich heritage and outstanding quality, Ethiopian coffee is among the best in the world.
The story of Ethiopian coffee begins with a legend. According to tradition, a young goatherd named Kaldi used to take his goats to graze at pastures in ‘Kaffa’ province, southern Ethiopia. He was surprised that after having eaten red berries from a nearby shrub, the goats started jumping excitedly. Kaldi decided to taste a few berries himself and found them stimulating.
The legend has it that Kaldi shared his discovery with monks at a local monastery. They quickly realized that consuming the berries could help them stay awake during long hours of prayer. To preserve the flavor of the powerful beans for longer, they roasted and soaked them in hot water and coffee was born. For many centuries, after his discovery, coffee was eaten and not drunk. It was not until the thirteenth century that the practice of brewing a hot drink from roasted beans was introduced, but soon acquired popularity.
Ceremonial honors: Also, of great interest is Ethiopia’s unique coffee ceremony. The Ethiopian coffee ceremony is an important part of Ethiopian culture. Coffee is widely drunk in Ethiopia, and it is treated with great respect simply because the drink is much appreciated.
Ethiopians are famed for their vibrant coffee ceremony. A typical delicious Ethiopian meal is followed by this elaborate coffee ceremony. While the guests replete after their enjera and wot [fermented teff flour flatbread and Ethiopia’s version of curry], a woman of the household quietly starts the ritual. She scatters freshly cut grasses on the floor to bring in some of the fragrance and freshness of the outside. She seats herself in the corner with a low stool beside a charcoal brazier. She lights incense further enhancing the pleasant setting.
The ceremony starts with washing the coffee beans. Then the coffee beans are roasted in a pan over a stove or a charcoal brazier. When they are toasted right, the woman brings the pan with the roasted beans around, shaking it in front of each guest, to take in the fragrant odor. Grinding the roasted coffee beans by a pestle and a mortar is the next step. The mortar is a small wooden bowl called ‘mukecha’, and the pestle is a wooden or metal cylinder with a blunt end called ‘zenezena’.
With these tools, she crushes the beans into a coarse ground. Water will be boiled with a coffee pot made of pottery called ‘Jebena’ and the coffee powder will be added to it and boils. ‘Jebena’ is a traditional clay coffee pot, round and plump at the base, usually with a long narrow neck ending in a pouring spout at the top. The woman usually produces something to nibble on, often popcorn which she passes around to the guests. After boiling the coffee for some time, she pours the coffee into little handless cups locally known as ‘Sini’. And serves.
In Ethiopia coffee is always served in three rounds. The whole ceremony often lasts over several hours. Through the completion of these rounds of drinking: the first round(abol), the second round (tona) and the third round(baraka), people use the moment as a time to reconnect with family and friends to discuss the community, politics, and life in general. The three rounds of talking, laughing and relaxing are not less than the joy and pleasure that we aspire to have in heaven!
After everyone has drunk, and enjoyed, she collects the cups, adds more water to the pot, and brews a second round, using the same grounds. Indulging in all three rounds is tempting, as the brew is so tasty and satisfying after a delicious meal. But the coffee is strong, and the unwary can lie awake, wide-eyed throughout the night after such an indulgence.
No matter how good or bad one’s day is going, there should always be time for everyone to enjoy a quiet and pleasant moment together like the Ethiopian Coffee ceremony.
And we invite you to delve into the rich sublime taste of coffee from its origin, Ethiopia.
