An exquisite and traditional artform that originated over 2,500 years ago in the Indian state of Andhra Pradesh was born out of the ancient art of story-telling. Professional storytellers, as they went from village to village, often used images drawn on cotton cloth to embellish their narratives. These drawings, originally made with a tamarind pen and using natural dyes, often depicted images of divine characters from the Hindu epics such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata, along with flowers, peacocks, paisleys and other motifs.
Kalamkari, which literally means painting with a kalam (pen), employs a sharp and pointed bamboo nibbed applicator that regulates the flow of natural dyes onto a cotton canvas. From adorning garments with detailed designs befitting royalty to reinventing itself into a modern-day design element on utility products, Kalamkari has come a long way.
Two unique styles of kalamkari art that continue to flourish in India are the Srikalahasti and the Machilipatnam style. In the Srikalahasti style of Kalamkari, the pen or kalam is used for freehand drawing and filling in the colors, and is completely a handwork art. Named after the place of its origin in Andhra Pradesh, Srikalahasti was influenced by the abundance of temples in the area, which provided the inspiration for its themes. Panels on canvas often depict episodes from Hindu mythology.
On the other hand, the Machilipatnam style of Kalamkari craft involves vegetable-dyed block-painting of a fabric. In this style, Kalamkari designs are generally printed with hand carved blocks with intricate details, printed by hand. Hailing from the Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh, the Machilipatnam style reflects strong Islamic influence since it was patronized by Golconda Sultanate.
Another distinct style of ancient Kalamkari art that remains extant today hails from Maharashtra state and is known as the Karrupur style of Kalamkari. This style was influenced by Marathi sensibilities and artists usually lavishly embellish their artistry by integrating gold brocades in their paintings. Karrupur style was popular among the Maratha royalties and the craft was used as pieces of couture in the form of saris and dhotis.
Kalamkari art relies on the use of organic dyes with the outlines of the drawings made using molasses and iron filings and the colors prepared from natural products like mineral salts, fruits, flowers, roots and leaves. The art primarily involves earthy colors such as indigo, green, rust, black and mustard. There are several treatments involved before and after the paintings are finished, including the use of buffalo and cow milk blended with berries and alum to fasten colors and also lend the cloth a glossy finish. The dyess are also known to change their hues depending on the treatment of cloth and quality of the mordant. Every step in the process is done with extreme perfection by the artists.
From the first representation of Kalamkari art as religious paintings, depicting Indian gods and goddesses to the process of gaining recognition during the reign of Mughal dynasty, and till today when Andhra Pradesh is the largest producer of Kalamkari, this art has come a long way.
In the past, due to the tedious technique and labor involved in its making, Kalamkari art was losing its sheen. Moreover, the emergence of high-tech machine looms and printed textiles also escalated the extinction process of this art. However, the art was revived by Indian fashion designers who came together and helped artisans practicing this art by providing outlets for their creations.
