This season, AllSaints presents its Autumn 2016 collection, highlighting the latest chapter in the brand’s ongoing global journey.
Entitled Remote Control, the collection takes its inspiration from 1980s Tokyo as the emerging ‘electric city’, typified by the remote control device, which, more than ever, depicts today’s obsession with channel zapping and the digital era’s desire for restless novelty and immediacy.
Indeed, the collection is consciously assembled as a patchwork of 1980s references – some subtle, others overt – that twists, decodes and reconstructs the era’s sartorial motifs and places them in contemporary Tokyo, itself an intoxicating urban crossroads of cultures and identities.
The womenswear collection showcases high-shine gloss leather as a central motif, evocative of 1980s Japanese street photography, with its violent flashbulbs exposing the night’s illicit possibilities. The iconic AllSaints’ biker jacket comes re-shaped with rounded shoulders and accompanied by ultra short dresses, silk leopard print socks and slips, and stiletto leather ankle boots; oversize mannish volumes are sharply belted in to accentuate femininity; and checks on mohair coats reflect the repetitive grid of polished tiles, glass brick windows and television screens that form the backdrop of Tokyo’s industrial fabric.
Menswear becomes a visceral collage of Japanese cut-and-paste style culture, in which proportions, textures and patterns willfully collide to create new silhouettes where ‘perfect’ matches are avoided, clashes embraced. A shrunken bomber jacket in shearling is juxtaposed with oversized leopard jacquard sweater and cropped trousers; high-shine nylon and wool are needle-punched together to layer a military jacket; silk prints are reminiscent of Tokyo’s ubiquitous neon; and creeper boots with white laces signal 1980s post-punk attitude.
This diversity of proportion, palette and functionality is mirrored in the accompanying bag collection, which sees oversized hobo bags and totes combine with small clutches with removable chains – the elegant evening bag retaining AllSaints’ edge and attitude. Sheepskin patchworks, water snake panels and coated tweed fabrics extend the signature fabrics of leather and suede, while detailing such as oversized belt buckles, shiny snake chains, braided handles and extended tassels express the intricacies and idiosyncrasies of the modern woman’s lifestyle.